The lake is the point of the town, and it is also the drainage problem. Shoreline lots shed water toward the water, banks erode where wakes and winter rain meet a soft edge, and inland yards stay damp because the water table and the clay do not let a storm leave quickly. Lake-adjacent ground stays cool and wet. Aeration helps only if the lawn is not sitting in water. If it is, the drain comes first.
Snohomish County · ZIP 98258 · 2020 population 34,385
Damp lawns that never quite dry
A lawn that squishes in June has a water problem, not a compaction problem. We will not core a yard that is still holding last week’s rain; the machine makes mud and the holes collapse. When the surface can take weight, cores open the mat so oxygen gets to roots that have been sitting wet.
On shoreline lots we are careful about what we do with the plugs and any fertilizer. Soil and nutrients washing toward the lake are the problem the bank is already having. Cores stay on the lawn. Nothing gets blown down the slope.
The ground in Lake Stevens
On the water, the work is the bank and the view. A retaining edge, native shoreline plants such as red osier dogwood, and a rain garden or a drain that slows runoff before it hits the lake do more for the property than a strip of sod at the top of an eroding slope. Fertilizer and bare soil washing into the lake are how a nice lawn becomes a neighbor problem.
Off the water, in the newer neighborhoods, the soils were compacted during construction and the lawns were rolled out on top. They look fine in July and sour in February. Aeration, a real topdressing, and getting the downspouts away from the foundation are the unglamorous jobs that keep those yards from turning to moss. Patios here are for the view. We build the base as if it will be wet half the year, because it will.
How we do the work
We pull cores, we do not poke holes. A spike aerator squeezes the soil tighter around each puncture, which is the opposite of what a Western Washington lawn needs. Cores are about three inches, left on the grass to break apart in the rain. The visit is timed for soil that is moist enough to take the tine and dry enough that the machine does not leave ruts.
If the thatch is thicker than a finger, aerating through it only decorates the moss. Those lawns get dethatched first. Lime is a separate decision. A lot of local soil is sour, and we spread lime when the lawn shows it, not because a calendar said March.
What we look at first
- Thatch depth before we core
- Whether the ground ruts under foot
- Shade from trees that will keep the lawn thin no matter how often we aerate
- Downspouts dumping onto the same corner every winter
Seed in the holes
Aeration without seed is enough when the lawn is thick and you are only relieving compaction. When you can see soil between the plants, we put seed in the openings the same day. Seed on an unaerated moss mat is bird food.
What we leave behind
Plugs on the grass for a few days, then they fall apart. You can mow when they crumble. Watering is only needed if we seeded and the week turned dry, which is rare here. Stay off the soft spots until the footprints disappear.
When we show up
The useful months are April into early June, and again in September. Midsummer cores on a dry lawn shatter and the holes collapse. January cores on saturated ground are ruts. We would rather wait a week than leave you with tracks.
More from this crew
- Lawn aeration across Snohomish County
- Lawn dethatching in Lake Stevens
- Lawn seeding in Lake Stevens
- Lawn fertilization in Lake Stevens
- Lawn mowing in Lake Stevens
- Lawn aeration in Everett
- Lawn aeration in Marysville
- Lawn aeration in Snohomish
Sources for the climate and the water
- USDA plant hardiness map for choosing plants that can take a Snohomish County winter.
- EPA WaterSense on watering less once a lawn or a new planting is established.
- EPA Soak Up the Rain on keeping roof and yard water from becoming someone else’s problem.
