Snohomish is the old river town. Downtown sits above the Snohomish River, the houses have mature trees, and a lot of the gardens were planted decades ago and then left to get big. The ground near the river stays wet. The hills just south of it do not. Seed in the part of the yard that spends February underwater is gone by March, along with the soil it sat in.
Snohomish County · ZIP 98290 · 2020 population 10,091
Seed the bench, not the flood line
We mark the stain where the water sat. Above that line, fall seed takes well in the fine river-bottom soil, as long as we are not planting into a leaf mat. Below the line we plant for wet feet or we drain, and we do not pretend it is lawn.
Hydroseed is reasonable on a larger bare area after a cleanup, if the grade is gentle. We still tarp or berm the low edge so the first storm does not take the slurry to the river.
The ground in Snohomish
Historic lots come with plants nobody planned: a cedar too close to the porch, a lilac that has swallowed the walk, beds that were neat in 1998 and are roots and bindweed now. Pruning and a hard cleanup are often the whole first phase. Bark, used with a little restraint, puts a finished line back on a Victorian front without covering the problem.
Closer to the river, drains matter. Riparian edges want native plants that can take wet soil, not a sod lawn rolled to the bank. We do not haul fill into the floodplain to “raise the yard” without understanding where that water will go next. Uphill, in the newer pockets, the work looks more like the rest of the county: lawns, small patios, and moss.
How we do the work
Seed fails here for three boring reasons: it lands on moss, it lands in the dry week of July, or it is a variety that wants a Midwest summer. We use mixes that can take cool, wet winters and our weak sun. The ground is opened first, by dethatching or cores, or the seed is just decoration.
Hydroseed makes sense on a bare area big enough to justify the tank, especially a cleared bench or a new grade. A small backyard is hand seeded or slit seeded. We say which one when we see the square footage, not from the truck.
What we look at first
- Bare soil versus a mat the seed cannot touch
- Sun hours, because no mix grows under a solid canopy
- How the water leaves the area
- Whether hydroseed or a slit seeder fits the gate and the size
The mix we actually use
Perennial rye for speed and wear, fine fescues for shade and for the wet. We do not push a bluegrass lawn that wants heat we do not get. The bag is matched to the light on that yard, not to a single recipe for the whole county.
Water for the first two weeks
Rain usually does it in September. If it does not, the surface needs to stay damp, not flooded. Once the grass is up, we stretch the watering out. A seedling that is misted forever never roots.
Hydroseed, plainly
A slurry of seed, mulch, and tackifier, sprayed on bare soil. It holds on gentle grades better than dry seed. It still fails on a vertical bank, on moss, and on ground that is underwater. We look at those before we book the tank.
More from this crew
- Lawn seeding across the region
- Lawn aeration in Snohomish
- Sod installation in Snohomish
- Lawn dethatching in Snohomish
- Lawn fertilization in Snohomish
- Lawn seeding in Everett
- Lawn seeding in Lake Stevens
Sources for the climate and the water
- USDA plant hardiness map for choosing plants that can take a Snohomish County winter.
- EPA WaterSense on watering less once a lawn or a new planting is established.
- EPA Soak Up the Rain on keeping roof and yard water from becoming someone else’s problem.
