Lynnwood is built tight: retail around Alderwood, houses on smaller lots, and soils that were compacted when the neighborhood went in. Rain runs off roofs, walks, and the mall-side pavement faster than the yard can take it. The thin spots are usually the path the dog takes and the corner that stays wet. Seed on top of those, without opening the soil, disappears.
Snohomish County · ZIP 98036 · 2020 population 38,141
Overseeding worn city grass
We slit seed or we seed into cores. Broadcast seed on a hard little lawn blows to the fence. The mix is wear-tolerant rye with fescue, because these yards get walked on. Shade from the neighbor’s fir gets the fescue; the parking-strip sun can take rye.
Keep off it for two weeks if you can. On a small lot that is awkward, so we tell you which strip actually matters. Mow when the new grass reaches about three inches, and do not bag the first cut so short you pull the seedlings.
The ground in Lynnwood
Residential yards here are often a rectangle of tired turf, a fence, and a patio slab that has settled toward the house. The soil underneath is dense. Water sits, moss follows, and a new plant put into that ground without loosening it just stalls.
We aerate and dethatch before we promise a greener lawn, and we look at the downspouts before we sell a flower bed. Pavers and gravel show up on the small patios and the side yards where people actually walk. There is also commercial work along the retail streets — pruning, pressure washing, and beds that have to look kept without a full-time gardener. Native, lower-water plantings make more sense than a hedge that needs shearing every three weeks next to a busy road.
How we do the work
Seed fails here for three boring reasons: it lands on moss, it lands in the dry week of July, or it is a variety that wants a Midwest summer. We use mixes that can take cool, wet winters and our weak sun. The ground is opened first, by dethatching or cores, or the seed is just decoration.
Hydroseed makes sense on a bare area big enough to justify the tank, especially a cleared bench or a new grade. A small backyard is hand seeded or slit seeded. We say which one when we see the square footage, not from the truck.
What we look at first
- Bare soil versus a mat the seed cannot touch
- Sun hours, because no mix grows under a solid canopy
- How the water leaves the area
- Whether hydroseed or a slit seeder fits the gate and the size
Hydroseed, plainly
A slurry of seed, mulch, and tackifier, sprayed on bare soil. It holds on gentle grades better than dry seed. It still fails on a vertical bank, on moss, and on ground that is underwater. We look at those before we book the tank.
Water for the first two weeks
Rain usually does it in September. If it does not, the surface needs to stay damp, not flooded. Once the grass is up, we stretch the watering out. A seedling that is misted forever never roots.
The mix we actually use
Perennial rye for speed and wear, fine fescues for shade and for the wet. We do not push a bluegrass lawn that wants heat we do not get. The bag is matched to the light on that yard, not to a single recipe for the whole county.
More from this crew
- Lawn seeding across Snohomish County
- Lawn aeration in Lynnwood
- Sod installation in Lynnwood
- Lawn dethatching in Lynnwood
- Lawn fertilization in Lynnwood
- Lawn seeding in Edmonds
- Lawn seeding in Brier
- Lawn seeding in Mountlake Terrace
Sources for the climate and the water
- USDA plant hardiness map for choosing plants that can take a Snohomish County winter.
- EPA WaterSense on watering less once a lawn or a new planting is established.
- EPA Soak Up the Rain on keeping roof and yard water from becoming someone else’s problem.
