The Stillaguamish sits on the north edge of town, and a lot of the yards along the valley floor are old river ground: fertile when it drains, and a slick gray clay when it does not. Winter rain piles up against houses that back toward the Centennial Trail and the river parks, and the lawn stays soft long after the street looks dry. A spike hole in this clay glazes shut. Water still sits on top, and the grass thins until moss takes the opening. Cores give the rain a way into the root zone.
Snohomish County · ZIP 98223 · 2020 population 19,847
Cores in clay that smears
Valley clay smears when it is wet and turns to brick in August. We core in the windows when the soil holds a shape in your hand without dripping. Leave the plugs. They are the clay you want broken up, and raking them off throws away the only soil you loosened.
After a wet week the lawn can look fine from the street and still be anaerobic an inch down. That is the sour smell when you pull a plug. We do not fertilize that lawn the same week. Food on a sealed surface feeds the moss. Open the ground, then feed it if it actually needs feeding.
The ground in Arlington
Arlington is a valley town, not a hillside suburb. Lots near the farmland and the trail are often open to the west wind and sit on clay that holds water. After a wet week the soil smears under a boot and the moss moves into any thin spot in the grass. Houses closer to the river have a second problem: the ground is low, so a downspout that just dumps at the foundation has nowhere useful to send the water.
We plan work around that. Drainage goes in before we talk about a patio or a new lawn. Native plantings that actually belong on this floodplain — vine maple, salmonberry, and other understory that can take wet feet — do better than a plant list copied from a drier lot. Gravel paths and low rock work fit the rural edges of town without pretending the soil is something it is not.
How we do the work
We pull cores, we do not poke holes. A spike aerator squeezes the soil tighter around each puncture, which is the opposite of what a Western Washington lawn needs. Cores are about three inches, left on the grass to break apart in the rain. The visit is timed for soil that is moist enough to take the tine and dry enough that the machine does not leave ruts.
If the thatch is thicker than a finger, aerating through it only decorates the moss. Those lawns get dethatched first. Lime is a separate decision. A lot of local soil is sour, and we spread lime when the lawn shows it, not because a calendar said March.
What we look at first
- Thatch depth before we core
- Whether the ground ruts under foot
- Shade from trees that will keep the lawn thin no matter how often we aerate
- Downspouts dumping onto the same corner every winter
Seed in the holes
Aeration without seed is enough when the lawn is thick and you are only relieving compaction. When you can see soil between the plants, we put seed in the openings the same day. Seed on an unaerated moss mat is bird food.
When we show up
The useful months are April into early June, and again in September. Midsummer cores on a dry lawn shatter and the holes collapse. January cores on saturated ground are ruts. We would rather wait a week than leave you with tracks.
What we leave behind
Plugs on the grass for a few days, then they fall apart. You can mow when they crumble. Watering is only needed if we seeded and the week turned dry, which is rare here. Stay off the soft spots until the footprints disappear.
More from this crew
- Lawn aeration across Snohomish County
- Lawn dethatching in Arlington
- Lawn seeding in Arlington
- Lawn fertilization in Arlington
- Lawn mowing in Arlington
- Lawn aeration in Marysville
- Lawn aeration in Granite Falls
- Lawn aeration in Stanwood
Sources for the climate and the water
- USDA plant hardiness map for choosing plants that can take a Snohomish County winter.
- EPA WaterSense on watering less once a lawn or a new planting is established.
- EPA Soak Up the Rain on keeping roof and yard water from becoming someone else’s problem.
