Monroe sits on the Skykomish, with the fairgrounds on the edge of town. River-bottom ground stays wet, and a yard built as if the water table were low will heave, puddle, or grow moss until someone deals with the water. Seed in the part of the yard that spends February underwater is gone by March, along with the soil it sat in.
Snohomish County · ZIP 98272 · 2020 population 19,608
Seed the bench, not the flood line
We mark the stain where the water sat. Above that line, fall seed takes well in the fine river-bottom soil, as long as we are not planting into a leaf mat. Below the line we plant for wet feet or we drain, and we do not pretend it is lawn.
Hydroseed is reasonable on a larger bare area after a cleanup, if the grade is gentle. We still tarp or berm the low edge so the first storm does not take the slurry to the river.
The ground in Monroe
We see two kinds of lots. In town, smaller yards with the usual compacted soil and a lawn that has to look fine for most of the year. Closer to the river and the low ground, soils that remember high water. Gravel and drains belong there. A finished bark bed in a spot that floods is mulch in the neighbor’s fence line by spring.
The fair is part of the calendar. People want yards cleaned up and hedges cut back before the traffic and the guests, and they want storm debris gone after the first big fall wind. Trees on these lots — including the old fruit trees — need pruning that opens them up, not a topping that makes them dangerous. Native plantings along the wet edges do the work a lawn cannot.
How we do the work
Seed fails here for three boring reasons: it lands on moss, it lands in the dry week of July, or it is a variety that wants a Midwest summer. We use mixes that can take cool, wet winters and our weak sun. The ground is opened first, by dethatching or cores, or the seed is just decoration.
Hydroseed makes sense on a bare area big enough to justify the tank, especially a cleared bench or a new grade. A small backyard is hand seeded or slit seeded. We say which one when we see the square footage, not from the truck.
What we look at first
- Bare soil versus a mat the seed cannot touch
- Sun hours, because no mix grows under a solid canopy
- How the water leaves the area
- Whether hydroseed or a slit seeder fits the gate and the size
The mix we actually use
Perennial rye for speed and wear, fine fescues for shade and for the wet. We do not push a bluegrass lawn that wants heat we do not get. The bag is matched to the light on that yard, not to a single recipe for the whole county.
When to mow new grass
At about three inches, with a sharp blade, and not shorter than two. The first mows are slow. Turning the mower on a dime on day ten pulls the seedlings out in a clump.
Water for the first two weeks
Rain usually does it in September. If it does not, the surface needs to stay damp, not flooded. Once the grass is up, we stretch the watering out. A seedling that is misted forever never roots.
More from this crew
- Lawn seeding across Snohomish County
- Lawn aeration in Monroe
- Sod installation in Monroe
- Lawn dethatching in Monroe
- Lawn fertilization in Monroe
- Lawn seeding in Sultan
- Lawn seeding in Snohomish
- Lawn seeding in Gold Bar
Sources for the climate and the water
- USDA plant hardiness map for choosing plants that can take a Snohomish County winter.
- EPA WaterSense on watering less once a lawn or a new planting is established.
- EPA Soak Up the Rain on keeping roof and yard water from becoming someone else’s problem.
